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Each new year brings a new olive oil

February 20th, 2012

One of the wonderful things about Italy is its olive oil. Quintessential to Italian cooking, the olive is found from one end of the country to the other. In the lowlands and the highlands, in the mountains and near the sea, in the countryside and in the city. A producer of the green and black olive, this fruiting tree is crucial to the growth of Western Civilization and is linked to the rise of cities, culture and wealth in the Mediterranean basin. It is one of the most written about plants and is featured in many of the great classics of all time.

Our son sits by a beautiful olive tree in the heat of summer

A beautiful thing happens each year- the olive harvest. Because so many people have olive trees on their land, one is lucky to have many friends who are producing their own olive oil, even if you don’t have your own trees. And one of the greatest things about having friends with olive trees is that they often give olive oil as gifts. This winter we were given 4 different kinds of olive oil from several different areas of Italy, from the hills of the Castelli Romani, Tuscany, Umbria and even the Veneto region. Each olive oil has its own characteristics. It can be more or less spicy, fruity, and aromatic.

The 'olive dolce' or sweet olive is lightly brined and very fresh

Cooking to taste the new olive oil is a specialty in Italy. This means that you use it with food in order to enhance the food as well as the olive oil. Once can serve it fresh out of the bottle with raw vegetables, toasted pieces of bread in the form of bruschetta, drizzle it on top of roasted vegetables or over soups and pastas. The best way to taste the new olive oil is to serve it uncooked, fresh out of the bottle.

The charming little green olive delicately perched on fine branches

We recently received a great bottle of olive oil from our friends in the Castelli Romani and went through it very quickly. When all the olive oil ran out that we had received from friends I felt a sense of panic. How could we have finished it so quickly! We went to the San Teodoro market in Rome, near the Circus Maximus one weekend to buy some supplies. There we bought a gallon of olive oil from an artisan, organic producer from Lazio, just outside of Rome.  I was glad to realize that I can buy olive oil of such high quality, from someone whose oil has the freshness and quality of that from a friend. Here you can see it drizzled on a bowl of leek and potato soup with guanciale. Delicious! I use an old Dewars bottle to store it in. The golden stag emphasizes the golden green color of the oil quite well. Visiting an olive producer and taking an olive oil tasting is a wonderful experience, as is tasting as many kinds of olive oil in Italy as possible!

The olive oil can make the dish- olive oil on leek and potato soup

Olive oil has been described as ‘Liquid Gold ” and here you can see why!

blogged by Sienna

Castelli Romani: fascinating discoveries hide behind the Secret Door!

February 19th, 2012

Bottles in a historic cantina in Frascati

A Visit to the Castelli Romani makes a great day trip from Rome- easy to do and quick to get there. One can go by train or by private car for a visit  featuring wonderful wine, food and history, and many off the beaten path places where you won’t see another tourist.

Strolling through the vineyards

Another great highlight of the area is nature.Nature abounds here in the Castelli, seen its chestnut forests, lovely hidden lakes, lush vineyards, and views of the mountains and seaside.

The family who runs this small artisan Vineyard has maintained the grounds in a charming country manner. The caves are carved out of tufa stone and go deep back into the hillside.

At the end of the underground cantina, a wonderful site lies in store for you..

Wines grown from autoctonous grapes give a good sense of the terroir of the region- volcanic soil, rich with minerals and a perfect climate for growing grapes and wine production.

We have chosen this location for one of the stops on this wine tour  for its beautiful location, charming ambience and for the surprises found on site. Our sommeliers Ettore and Sarah say that it is one of the most beautiful vineyards in the region.

Visit the lovely grounds with hundreds year old pines and vineyards

The grounds feature views all around. One can see Rome below in the valley, tiny Castelli Hilltop towns up above, and vineyards stretching out in every direction. This wine producer’s property has a stunning feeling to it- historic, and traditional, and yet with some innovative products such as a sparkling wine and peat smoked grappa!

On the site we present an informative and fun talk about olives and the production of olive oil, wine making, as well as typical products of the region. We organize a tasting of these products of artisan cured meats and cheese to accompany the wines, chosen from different vintages. And at the end, a grappa tasting is a must do!

Historic casale covered with red leaves in Autumn

blogged by Sienna

Announcing: Italy Hotline Custom & Gourmet Travel Photo Contest

January 10th, 2012


Italy was and always will be one of the world’s most beautiful countries. From the rolling hills of Tuscany, the cold moody waters of Venice, Rome’s ancient ruins bathed in the evening sun, to the breathtaking ragged edge of the Amalfi coast: every corner is a little slice of heaven!

We are looking for photos of you and your travel companions taken during your Italy Hotline tours – anything from cooking classes, to  evening city wine tours, city highlights walks, museum visits, market tours, boat trips, truffle hunting experiences and archeological explorations!

The winners of the Italy Hotline Custom & Gourmet Travel Photo Contest will receive a prize pack featuring the exclusive Karen Brown guide book to Italy Hotels, a cookbook by the famous Tuscan chef Pamela Sheldon Johns, and an Italy Hotline apron!

Upload your shots to our Tripadvisor galleries or send your photographs to info@italyhotline.com between now and  Jan. 30 2012 to be included in our drawing, and we’ll announce the winners on February 14th. Multiple submissions are highly encouraged! We will be awarding prizes to the top three submissions.

Deadline: 30th January, 2012

Please send pictures to info@italyhotline.com or upload directly to TripAdvisor Italy Hotline

 

 
Italy Hotline Custom and Gourmet Tours

Office in Rome, Italy: +39 393 5469 303

Office in Rome, Italy: +39 393 5491 033

Toll Free from USA: 1 888 221 6686

website: www.italyhotline.com

email: info@italyhotline.com

blog: http://italyhotline.com/blog/

twitter: italyhotline

TripAdvisor: http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Attraction_Review-g187791-d1575412-Reviews-Italy_Hotline_Custom_and_Gourmet_Tours-Rome_Lazio.html

 

blogged by ally

Mercato di Piazza Vittorio – International Market in the Heart of Rome

December 8th, 2011

Every morning the city of Rome fills with markets; they are set up in every ‘quartiere’, and sell fresh local produce: everything from vegetable and fruit to meat, cheese, eggs and fish. Some markets are more famous than others: Rome’s most talked-about and prettiest one is called Campo de’ Fiori – located in the very heart of the city centre it offers a small but beautifully presented selection food, clothes, jewelry, and of course flowers. It’s charming, in a very Roman way, and a must-see for all first-time visitors to Rome. It’s mentioned in every guide book, and I don’t want to bore you with more facts and pictures.

Instead, today I want to let you in on a little secret: a market popularly known as Mercato di Vittorio. This establishment, over the years, has undergone immense transformations: not only in location, shifting from the main piazza to the large building of the former milk factory, but also in the type of produce it sells. Once a purely Italian, or rather Roman market it is now rightly called Rome’s “international market”. Chances are, no matter where in the world you are from or what cuisine you are thinking of tackling for dinner that night, you will find what you need at Vittorio.

Located between the metro stops Termini (Line A/B) and Vittorio (A), you can almost ‘smell’ your way to the market: delicious, exotic smells of spices, fruits and ready-to-eat food start tantalizing you long before you see its colorful stalls. The streets surrounding the market, incidentally, are also lined with excellent international food shops and restaurants.

We walked around the market and let our eyes feast on rare produce, impossible to find elsewhere in Rome, like plantain, bok choy and bitter gourd…

Opening times: Mon-Sat 7am – 2pm

 

by Ally Novgorodtseva

blogged by ally

Vanni Saltarelli’s Sultry Female Form – Vernissage at 6° Senso Art Gallery in Rome on 11.11.11

November 12th, 2011

The opening of the solo show for Vanni Saltarelli this past Friday at Rome’s 6° Senso Art Gallery was an extraordinary experience, akin to encountering an old friend. The charming, charismatic artist came down from his native region of Lombardy with a small group of friends to celebrate his first show in Italy’s capital. Saltarelli has had solo exhibits all over the world in the galleries of Paris, Vienna, Rotterdam, New York, Hamburg, Monte Carlo, Venice and Milan, displaying works in which he consistently celebrates the magnificence and strength of the female form.

“Perhaps not it is not a very original thing to say”, explains the artist, “but for me the female body is the shape of life. It’s the beginning of life. Something constantly beautiful. Animals fascinate me because they too are constant and unchanging, undergoing only minor mutations throughout the centuries. Nothing crucial in either physical aspect or habit. Putting these two subjects alongside one another is my quest for perfection”.

Despite maintaining his single distinct style throughout his body of work, Saltarelli’s pieces surprisingly accomplish to evoke moods of very different eras. The exhibit’s central work titled ‘Chicco D’Oro’ is modern, sexy, and suggestive. Whether intentionally or not, his crimson-lipped siren absolutely recalls the delicious pin-ups of the great Gil Elvgren. The work’s theatrical glam-grunge factor seems to almost mock the rest of the exhibition’s somber and dark tone; the schematic, dynamic nude exudes power, her steaming espresso suggesting energy and the cerise shoes her fleeting quality. In other words, if this were the world of fashion, these would be front row seats to an Alexander McQueen show: experimental, dark, and infinitely racy.

One the other hand looking at ‘Voglia di Volo’, depicting a crouching female nude from the back, overpowered by celestial force, introduces a different concept. Many of Saltarelli’s paintings, due to their inclusion of animals and nude female forms, unmistakably recall scenes from Greek mythology. ‘Voglia’ may be read as a sinister interpretation of the infamous encounter between Zeus and Danaë, during which the god turns into a shimmering cloud and visits the latter, fathering in this fantastic manner the hero Perseus.

A certain tension prevails between the graphics and the color in Saltarelli’s work: color is used scantily, yet when applied it often overwhelms the canvas, rendering an uneasy effect. The uncontrollable use of black, the artist explains, comes from the very same search for perfection – the painter begins with a rudimentary form and re-works it in the manner of a Penelopewerk, until all that is worthless disappears to reveal the principle and perfect, faceless female figure.

 

‘Corpi di Vento in Scena’ by Vanni Saltarelli

November 11 – Novembre 30, 2011
6° Senso Art Gallery – Via dei Maroniti 13/15 – Rome, Italy

 

by Ally Novgorodtseva

 

 

 

blogged by ally

Bosch, Bugs & Brutality – “Tribute to Hieronymus Bosch in Congo” in Rome’s MAGAZZINO Gallery

November 11th, 2011

He is known from the Venice Biennale, renowned for his cerebral sculpture, his outspoken political views, his writing and his theatre production: all-round talent and infamous Beetle Boy Jan Fabre strikes again at MAGAZZINO Gallery in Rome’s Via dei Prefetti, with a one-man show presenting seven newest works. Titled “Tribute to Hieronymus Bosch in Congo” the politically engaged Fabre tackles the historical subject of Belgium’s involvement in the Congo during its colonial era, while simultaneously tying it to classical sadist iconography applied by Bosch in the late 15th Century.

Particularly the Prado’s treasured “Garden of Early Delights” proved inspirational to Fabre, who borrows much of his imagery from the Dutchman. Bosch’s central “Garden” panel depicts a man carrying a large black mussel shell, inside which a couple succumbs to earthly pleasures while small loose pearls roll around inside the shell, touching one of the figure’s back and buttocks. Jan Fabre chooses to have the shell devoid of sexual reference and any aphrodisiac quality; instead, the dark shell acts as a prison cell for a black Congo slave. The shell violently spits large pearls into space, as the man’s hands, firmly tied with a thick rope, are fruitlessly attempting to rip apart its entrapping walls. Similarly, following what can be best described as Bosch’s anal fixation, Fabre presents an image of a black slave defecating diamonds. This not only, and more obviously, refers to the Belgian abuse of the Congo for the purpose of obtaining the valuable raw materials, but interestingly has a very literal significance as well. Often a slave who stole a diamond would be punished by being made to eat the raw gem; this gruesome sentence was followed by the slave’s internal bleeding and death.


Jan Fabre’s technical mastery is, of course, beyond doubt and the process by which these large works are created is fascinating. As these are made exclusively from dried wings of the jewel beetle, the artist mass-purchases these from local restaurants in Thailand; the beetles are a part of the Thai cuisine however their rough, hard, fingernail-shaped wings are not eaten and discarded by the Chefs before serving. Fabre employs a complicated, pain-staking technique that leaves his finished monumental pieces to look like intricate patterns on wicker furniture: hand-woven, thick, tactile, and seemingly in motion. The colors glint and shimmer with shades of forest green, turquoise, gold, and burnt sienna. The work is tremendously beautiful and, much like with Hirst’s “Cathedral Prints”, it is easy to forget the origin of the medium at hand.

 

‘Tribute to Hieronymus Bosch in Congo’ by Jan Fabre
November 10 – January 8, 2011
MAGAZZINO Gallery – Via dei Prefetti 17 – Rome, Italy
by Ally Novgorodtseva

blogged by ally

Solving Big Problems – New exhibition at 10b Photography Gallery in Rome

November 8th, 2011

This past Friday, November 4th 2011 witnessed the opening of a new exhibition at 10b Photography Gallery in Rome, with a show called “Solutions”. Hosted by the photo agency NOOR (based in Amsterdam and New York) it comes as an optimistic sequel to its ominous predecessor “Consequences”. Nine superstars of NOOR – Nina Berman, Philip Blenkinsop, Pep Bonet, Alixandra Fazzina, Stanley Greene, Yuri Kozyrev, Kadir van Lohuizen, Jon Lowenstein and Francesco Zizola – come together from every corner of the planet to record the positive steps, however small, that are being made to improve the dire situation in which the majority of our world’s population finds themselves. While there is some range in subject matter, the underlying themes of the exhibition remain climate change and the goal of sustainable development. The photographers demonstrate, using the examples of Iceland, China, Russia, Cuba, Bangladesh, Brazil, the United States, and Kenya both the suffering that the local population is currently undergoing (or has had to bear in the past) and the current attempts made to improve living conditions and slow down the devastating effects of climate change. The exhibition is beautifully diverse, and leaves you with the ambiguous and contradicting feelings of both hope and despair.

Opening with the exquisitely sterile photographs from Iceland, Pep Bonet’s work advertises clean Nordic efficiency in the country’s ability to use its natural geothermal heat for tourism, agriculture, farming and fishing. On the other hand images from the once infamous Bronx slums demonstrate, poignantly, local inhabitants’ incredible will power and eventual success at working together in fighting crime, poverty and pollution to create little oases of green and tranquility. Yuri Kozyrev tears us away to paint a very different picture: one of denial and escapism, as hundreds of Russians (among them teachers, physicists, and other scientists) rebuke the corruption and consumerist of our modern world in favor of simple living in the wilderness of Karelia and Altai. These photos, hauntingly beautiful and sensitive, as all of Kozyrev’s work, are in a way a sorrowful contribution to the show, as they do not in fact offer a solution for change, but rather depict a nation’s preference to abscond, turning back the hands of time, rather than facing the music. Finally, the story told through the stunning and moody photographs of Stanley Greene takes us to Kibera, a grim slum in Kenya’s capital Nairobi. Home to almost 1 million slum dwellers it is the biggest slum in Africa and one of the biggest in the world. According to statistics available, at best only 20% of the area has access to electricity. The battles with crime, unemployment, drugs, alcoholism and rape are daily, and the absence of streetlights at night only increases their number. Greene tackles this problem and follows the lives of several locals who seem to have found a light at the end of their tunnel: solar energy. Not only increasing safety on the streets but also work productivity, the gradual introduction of solar energy to this community is helping, one step at a time, toreach a brighter future.

A powerful show, ‘Solutions’ gives us an insight into some of the most extreme examples of both human suffering and human resourcefulness. What should not be dismissed, however, is the importance of this message in the context of our own lives: only very recently the Italian government was forced to shut down the city center of Milan to vehicles for 10 hours, due to a health violation as the level of pollution had been exceeding the legal EU limit for 12 consecutive days.

‘Solutions’ by NOOR
November 3 – December 16, 2011
10b Photography – Via San Lorenzo da Brindisi 10b – Rome, Italy


by Ally Novgorodtseva

blogged by ally

Magical Enough To Dream – Rome’s Quartiere Coppedè

November 7th, 2011

 

It is a typical Sunday in the Eternal City – the sun is shining, comfortingly warm on my shoulders despite it being the beginning of November. And while normally Rome is bursting with traffic, noise and general chaos, here and today is different.

Away from the bustle of Piazza Navona, the crowds of the Vatican and the lights  of camera flashes  surrounding the monumental Trevi Fountain, I find myself in a magical place: a place where time seems to have stopped, cloaking its dreamlike landscape in serenity and beauty. I’m in the very heart of Quartiere Coppedè.

Earlier today, strolling down Via Chiana, passing its closed shops and cafés, it felt like I was the only living soul on the planet. I knew what it was that I came here to see, but did not know how to get there. I continued walking, hoping to stumble across something that would point me in the right direction. Finally, I saw my clue – a regular building, a residential ‘palazzo’. At first it seemed unremarkable: it was just as tall as all the others around it; lined with high windows and shallow balconies; painted a muddy brown color. And yet, as I looked closer, I noticed remarkable detail – carved vines growing around its columns, human faces peering out from within its façade, and angry lions roaring down at me. I intuitively made a left, and found myself here – at Coppedè’s Piazza Mincio.

The Quartiere Coppedè is named after the architect who designed it, the Florentine Gino Coppedè. Completed around 1925 this architectural gem marks the end of the Art Nouveau movement in Italy – a style that is found in abundance, for instance, in cities like Vienna, Barcelona and Paris, and is characterized by the use of elements inspired by nature: animals, birds, insects, trees, flowers and roots. As in the work of both Klimt (Austria) and Gaudí (Spain), Coppedè made use of all of these elements, as well as bright colors and tasteful gilding, creating masterpieces that are not only striking and exquisite, but at the same time also entirely bizarre and dreamlike. The death-mask of a stern-looking king hangs above the depiction of a large golden spider weaving its delicate web (Palazzina del Ragno); gargoyles spit flames; tiled salamanders burn beside swimming sea-horses; a wooden medieval-style Madonna, surrounded by mosaics and frescoes of Renaissance Florentine nobility, adorns the turret of the piazza’s most remarkable building (Villini delle Fate). The late afternoon sunlight, reflecting off the water in the Fontana delle Rane, magically lights up the façade of the Palazzina del Ragno and all of its shimmering detail. Gino Coppedè was the son of an artisan furniture-maker, and was influenced by different time periods and styles that one may easily observe in the piazza: the Medieval Ages, the Baroque, and Liberty. The Florentine used a myriad of different materials to create his wonderland, such as for example marble, ancient Roman brick, glass, wood, glazed ceramic and wrought iron for the elaborate gates.

 

Looking across to the other side of the piazza is a large, beautifully carved entrance archway that leads out on to Via Tagliamento, and ends at Piazza Buenos Aires that, in turn, has a gem of its own: the stunning Church of Santa Maria Addolorata. Built and consecrated in 1930 this church, whose façade mosaics are equal in beauty to those of the great Basilica San Paolo, is the Argentinian national church in Rome and is dedicated to Our Lady of Sorrows.

As the sun begins to set, I find myself on Viale Regina Margherita. Leaving behind Coppedè’s silent, magical kingdom is a strange and almost surreal sensation … not very much unlike that of stumbling upon it in the first place.

 

by Ally Novgorodtseva

 

 

blogged by ally

Locals find ancient warships off Sicily undisturbed since the 1st punic war

September 7th, 2011

For thousands of years the remnants of the final battle of the first Punic War lay undisturbed off the coast of Sicily, until last week when a Stock Island-based research firm raised artifacts from the seafloor that historians say provide clues as to how the largest conflicts in antiquity were waged.

blogged by Sienna

New cinquecento chauffeur service

July 19th, 2011

Tired of being driven around in the S-class Mercedes we typically arrange for you? Try our new Fiat cinquecento service with Ellie, the world’s first Jack Russell Terrier chauffeur!
Ellie, the Jack Russell terrier

blogged by Yves